Hello, fellow sewing enthusiasts! I'm excited to share my experience making Vogue 1904, a pattern that instantly caught my eye with its statement sleeves and charming rickrack trim. As I prepared to dive into this project, I was surprised to find that no one else had made and reviewed this pattern on Pattern Review or elsewhere on the web. I hope you find this post useful if you plan to make your own.
While the fabric requirements call for lightweight drapey fabrics, I decided to go against the grain and use quilting cotton for its structure and the opportunity to mix prints. As a Ruby Star Society Maker, I had the privilege of using End Paper fabric by Jen Hewett. It's always a joy to play with pre-release fabrics and showcase their potential for other makers. The fabrics in a collection are well-suited for print mixing and take the stress out of knowing what works well together.
If you are new to print mixing, here are some tricks and tips to help you successfully combine different fabrics in your projects:
· Consider Weight and Drape: Combine fabrics of similar weight and drape to ensure your garment hangs and moves gracefully. Mixing a heavy fabric with a lightweight one can create balance issues.
· Color Coordination: Choose colors that complement each other. A harmonious color palette helps tie different fabrics together seamlessly.
· Texture Play: Mixing different textures can add visual interest and depth to your garment. For example, pair a smooth satin with a textured jacquard or a soft knit with a structured wool.
· Prints and Patterns: When mixing prints, consider using one dominant print and one or two smaller, more subtle prints to avoid overwhelming the design. A common color can help unify the prints.
· Balance Proportions: Balance the use of different fabrics throughout the garment. For example, use one fabric for the bodice and another for the sleeves or skirt to create a cohesive look.
· Seam Finishes: Pay attention to seam finishes when working with different fabrics. Some fabrics fray more easily than others, so consider using techniques like French seams, serging, or bias binding to keep edges neat.
· Pre-Wash Fabrics: Pre-wash all fabrics to prevent shrinkage and color bleeding. This ensures that your garment maintains its shape and vibrant colors after washing.
· Test for Compatibility: Make a small sample to test how different fabrics work together. This helps you identify any potential issues with compatibility, such as stretching or puckering.
· Interfacing and Stabilizers: Use interfacing or stabilizers to reinforce areas where fabrics of different weights meet. This helps maintain structure and prevent distortion.
· Use Coordinating Notions: Choose buttons, zippers, and trims that complement the mixed fabrics. This adds a polished and cohesive finish to your garment.
Ok, now back to the pattern. I requested yardage before I selected my pattern. Though I had enough fabric for the project, but I had to be creative with the layout. When I laid out the pre-washed and fabric (with my Thanks I made them pattern weights), I had to flip the front pieces to get it to fit. Because the fabric is directional, it flows opposite direction on the front and back. I am not bothered by it because I think is camouflaged with the print mixing.
I sewed my dress using my trusty Baby Lock Altair sewing machine for general construction and Accolade serger to finish the seams.
The rickrack trim adds a lovely detail, but it requires patience to ensure it's sewn on evenly. I pressed the trim to conform to the shape of the yoke and adjusted my machine speed to medium to prevent buckling.
Instead of buttonholes, I opted for pink plastic snaps for the closure. My Altair does buttonholes flawlessly and I never worry anymore about how they will turn out. I did not have enough of the kind of buttons I wanted to use while sewing at night. To keep my sewing momentum going, I used snaps that I had on hand. They were quick to install and gave the garment a modern touch.
I made size D (14) based on my measurements. During construction, I did a fit check as always. I was concerned that it might be too small because it didn’t close when I held it together. I almost abandoned it at that point thinking of a friend I could give it to. I even considered adding fabric gussets to the sides post construction to get it to work. Once I installed the placket and snaps, I was stunned to see that the fit was perfect! I wonder if others got to this stage and stopped because they thought it would not fit.
I used my blind hem foot attachment to hem the bottom of the dress for a near invisible look.
The structure of the quilting cotton paired with the statement sleeves and rickrack trim created a unique and stylish dress that I'm incredibly proud of.
I will probably make another dress with this pattern as I continue as a Ruby Star Society Maker.
I hope this inspires you to switch fabric suggestions and try something new with your sewing projects.
Happy sewing!