The Vali Dress by Pattern Fantastique is a stunning, 70's inspired glam smock that offers both style and comfort. With its high neckline, gathered yoke, and voluminous fabric, it's a versatile piece that can be dressed up or down.
I previously made an embellished top using this pattern for Sew News and I loved it and it made the cover. I made a dress then and I knew I would make the pattern yet again, but I was waiting on the perfect fabric.
As a Ruby Star Society Maker, I get to preview and play with upcoming fabric collections. I love that some of their fabric comes as 108" wide widths. When I saw Favorite Flowers by Melody Miller was available, I was thrilled. This was the fabric this pattern was waiting on.
I laid out my fabric with my pattern weights to cut the body of the dress. The pattern is designed at a midi length hemline. I wanted a maxi length, so I added about 12" below the pocket mark.
I played close attention to the position of the design motifs on the front and back so the flowers were centered when I cut those pieces.
With this version of the dress, I made a few modifications. I changed the side seam pockets to ones that had larger capacity (I used the pocket from a vintage pattern). I added fabric ties to pull in the fullness of the volume of the sides of the dress. To highlight the details of the yokes, I added white piping in the seams.
For the yoke modification, I cut premade piping to the length of the yoke seams. I pinned the piping to the right side of the yoke pieces, aligning the raw edges. I used my Baby Lock Accolade Serger to baste the the piping in place.
To sew the basted yoke pieces to the bodice, I used my Baby Lock Altair sewing machine with the zipper foot attached. I sandwiched the piping between the yoke and the bodice and used the foot as a guide to get close to, but not on the piping.
I continued with the garment construction per the pattern instructions. I love the piping accenting the back yoke. Visually, I like that it interrupts the eye of the voluminous sleeves.
The larger side seam pockets are more functional than those designed in the pattern. If you choose to make this, I suggest enlarging them.
I maintained the curved hemline on the front and back of the dress when I added the length. This pattern has generous ease accounting for volume. I cut the size 14, per my bust measurements. I love how the dress feels, but looking at the photos, I would make another change in the future. I would cut the back a size smaller to reduce the back even more.
It's always great to get reinforcement that what I make is good. While taking these photos, I was stopped by a trail walker who told me she loved my dress. When I told her I made it, she was amazed. She solicited me to make one for her. We will see if she calls...
Happy Sewing,
Bianca