The Vali Dress by Pattern Fantastique is a stunning, 70's inspired glam smock that offers both style and comfort. With its high neckline, gathered yoke, and voluminous fabric, it's a versatile piece that can be dressed up or down.
I previously made an embellished top using this pattern for Sew News and I loved it and it made the cover. I made a dress then and I knew I would make the pattern yet again, but I was waiting on the perfect fabric.
As a Ruby Star Society Maker, I get to preview and play with upcoming fabric collections. I love that some of their fabric comes as 108" wide widths. When I saw Favorite Flowers by Melody Miller was available, I was thrilled. This was the fabric this pattern was waiting on.
I laid out my fabric with my pattern weights to cut the body of the dress. The pattern is designed at a midi length hemline. I wanted a maxi length, so I added about 12" below the pocket mark.
I played close attention to the position of the design motifs on the front and back so the flowers were centered when I cut those pieces.
With this version of the dress, I made a few modifications. I changed the side seam pockets to ones that had larger capacity (I used the pocket from a vintage pattern). I added fabric ties to pull in the fullness of the volume of the sides of the dress. To highlight the details of the yokes, I added white piping in the seams.
For the yoke modification, I cut premade piping to the length of the yoke seams. I pinned the piping to the right side of the yoke pieces, aligning the raw edges. I used my Baby Lock Accolade Serger to baste the the piping in place.
To sew the basted yoke pieces to the bodice, I used my Baby Lock Altair sewing machine with the zipper foot attached. I sandwiched the piping between the yoke and the bodice and used the foot as a guide to get close to, but not on the piping.
I continued with the garment construction per the pattern instructions. I love the piping accenting the back yoke. Visually, I like that it interrupts the eye of the voluminous sleeves.
The larger side seam pockets are more functional than those designed in the pattern. If you choose to make this, I suggest enlarging them.
I maintained the curved hemline on the front and back of the dress when I added the length. This pattern has generous ease accounting for volume. I cut the size 14, per my bust measurements. I love how the dress feels, but looking at the photos, I would make another change in the future. I would cut the back a size smaller to reduce the back even more.
It's always great to get reinforcement that what I make is good. While taking these photos, I was stopped by a trail walker who told me she loved my dress. When I told her I made it, she was amazed. She solicited me to make one for her. We will see if she calls...
Happy Sewing,
Bianca
1 comment
Absolutely in love with the Vali Dress featuring those beautiful floral patterns! The way it captures the essence of spring with such vibrant colors is simply stunning. The design perfectly balances elegance and playfulness, much like a delicate cotton thread weaving through the fabric of the dress, making it a versatile piece for any occasion. It’s amazing how the favorite flowers are incorporated so beautifully, adding a personal touch that makes the dress truly special. Can’t wait to see how others style it!
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